Erica’s Christmas Biscotti

(Photo courtesy of Jennifer Corbett)

My sister has been making many varieties of biscotti for years, so when I was looking for a Christmasy version, I knew she’d be my best resource. This is one of her favorite biscotti recipes, and now one of mine, too. Incorporating roasted pistachios, chewy dried cranberries, and sweet white chocolate morsels, they are not only pretty, but also delicious enough for dessert or a snack served with coffee or tea. In addition, unlike many biscotti, these are surprisingly tender and delicate. They still satisfy with their crunch, but their firmness quickly gives way to a more cookie-like consistency.

Makes about 36 biscotti

1 cup dried cranberries or cherries

2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 cup sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 large eggs

3/4 cup shelled roasted pistachios (salted or unsalted)

3/4 cup white chocolate chips

Position the racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat the oven to 325ºF. Line 2 large baking sheets with parchment paper.

Put the cranberries in a small bowl and pour enough boiling water over them just to cover. Set aside to soak for 10 minutes.

Whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt in a medium bowl.

Combine the butter and sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and beat on medium-high speed until smooth and light, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the vanilla, drop in the eggs, one at a time, and mix until combined, stopping once to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Reduce the mixing speed to medium low and gradually add the flour mixture, mixing until just nearly incorporated. Drain the cranberries and add them, along with the pistachios and chocolate chips, to the batter, mixing until just incorporated. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and pat into a disc. Divide the dough in half, transfer both halves to one of the prepared baking sheets, and shape both pieces into 13-by-9-inch logs.

Bake until fragrant and light golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and set on a wire rack to cool slightly on the pan, about 10 minutes. Using a serrated knife, cut each log on the bias into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Arrange the slices on the prepared baking sheets and bake until golden brown and firm, 20 to 25 minutes, switching the pans on the racks about halfway through baking. The biscotti might require more or less time in the oven to crisp properly, but watch that they don’t brown too much on the undersides. Set the biscotti on wire racks to cool completely on the baking sheets. Store in airtight containers for up to 2 weeks.

Caramelized Onion and Olive Tartlets

With the holidays approaching, I am once again seeking inspiration for yummy nibbles and hors d’oeuvre to serve with cocktails for when friends and family pop in for a visit. These days, though, with three small children at home, my creative hours in the kitchen are few, so I’m not only on the lookout for delicious dishes, but also for recipes that I can make ahead. The holidays are busy enough with shopping, children’s school activities, and special events that laboring at the stove, even for those of us who like to cook, just isn’t practical. I have found that by spending a little time here and there preparing a variety of dishes, I can easily have something delicious and satisfying on hand to serve almost at a moment’s notice.

Reminiscent of the gorgeous Niçoise flatbread, pissaladière, these caramelized onion and olive tartlets are my new favorite savory two-bite treats. They are just right for holiday parties, as they are not only delicious, but can be prepared ahead in parts or in their entirety, as well. Tender pastry is just the right complement to a combination of sweet caramelized onions and salty oil-cured black olives. They are delightful hot right out of the oven or at room temperature, and would be lovely with a variety of cocktails, in addition to a full-bodied Chardonnay or a fruity Gewürztraminer or Riesling. Make the pastry and filling ahead of time, or put them together in an afternoon and keep them on hand for several days—if they last that long.

Caramelized Onion and Olive Tartlets

Makes 18

Pastry

1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup (1 stick) cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces

3 to 4 tablespoons cold water

Filling

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

3 small onions, peeled and thinly sliced (about 2 cups)

1/2 teaspoon salt

Pinch of freshly ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon dried thyme

1/4 cup oil-cured black olives, pitted and chopped

To make the pastry, combine the flour, salt, and butter in a large bowl and, using your fingertips, break up the pieces of butter in the flour until they are about the size of lentils. Do this as lightly and quickly as possible so as to prevent the butter from becoming too soft. Add the water, 1 tablespoon at a time, mixing with your fingers or a fork to form a dough. Shape it into a disc, wrap in plastic wrap, and set in the refrigerator to chill for at least 1 hour.

To make the filling, heat the olive oil and butter in a large sauté pan over medium-low heat. Add the onions, salt, pepper, and thyme and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are very soft and caramelized, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat, stir in the olives, and set aside to cool.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

To assemble the tartlets, roll the pastry on a lightly floured surface to about 1/8 inch thick. Cut out 18 rounds, about 2 1/2 to 3 inches in diameter, and fit each round into the cup of a mini muffin tin. Crimp the edges decoratively and set in the refrigerator to chill for about 15 minutes. Divide the onion mixture among the chilled pastry cups and bake until the pastry is golden brown the tartlets are fragrant, 20 to 25 minutes.

Serve the tartlets warm or at room temperature. Store cooled tartlets in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days. 

Summer Berry Crostate

These individual crostate, or free-form rustic tarts, are a mainstay of my dessert repertoire. With the same appeal as a traditional individual pies, they somehow seem like an easier, less stressful endeavor since there are no pie plates or pans involved and no fastidious edge crimping required. (If you have them, you can bake the crostate in 4-inch tartlet pans, but it’s not necessary.) The pastry is a buttery pâte sucrée, rich with egg yolks and slightly sweet with more sugar than a conventional pie crust. I have used a mixture of summer berries here, but vary the filling as you wish. Blueberries, blackberries, and peaches or nectarines, for example, also make for a lovely and yummy summer fruit filling. Enjoy these crostate for dessert, as a snack, or even as a luxurious vacation breakfast with cream or yogurt. This recipe also makes one 10-inch crostata. The baking time will be slightly longer, but the same doneness signs apply.

Makes about 16 crostate

Pâte Sucrée

2 3/4 cups all-purpose flour

1/4 cup sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted cold butter, cut into pieces

4 to 6 tablespoons cold water

2 large egg yolks

Filling

6 cups mixed fruit, such as sliced strawberries, blueberries, blackberries, and raspberries

1 cup sugar

1/4 cup cornstarch

Juice of 1 lemon

Pinch of salt

1 large egg yolk mixed with 1 tablespoon heavy cream

Sanding or Coarse sugar for sprinkling

To make the pâte sucrée, combine the flour, sugar, and salt in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the blade attachment. Add the butter and process until crumbly. The butter pieces should be no bigger than the size of small peas or lentils. Whisk together the water and egg yolks and, with the machine running, add to the butter and flour mixture. Process just until the dough comes together. The dough should not be dry, but if you find that it is, add additional water, about 1 tablespoon at a time, and process until it comes together. Turn out onto a large sheet of plastic wrap, press into a disc, wrap tightly. Chill in the refrigerator for 1 to 2 hours.

To finish the crostate, preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Line two large baking sheets with parchment paper.

To make the filling, gently but completely toss together the fruit, sugar, cornstarch, lemon juice, and salt.

To assemble the crostate, using about 1/2 or 1/3 of the chilled dough at a time, roll the dough on a lightly floured surface to nearly 1/4 inch thick. Cut out circles about 6 inches in diameter and transfer them to the prepared baking sheets. Re-roll the dough as needed, trying not to overwork it. If the rounds seem to be getting warm or soft, set them in the refrigerator to chill while you continue to roll and cut. Divide the filling among the rounds, mounding it in the centers, leaving about 1/2- to 1-inch rims. Fold the edges of the dough up over the filling, folding and crimping it as you go to create pretty circles. (If the pastry seems too soft and warm, set the crostate in the refrigerator to chill for about 15 minutes before proceeding.) Brush the egg yolk and cream mixture over the edges of the crostate. Sprinkle the pastry and the fruit with sanding sugar. Bake the crostate until the filling is bubbly and syrupy and the crusts are golden brown, 35 to 45 minutes.

Remove from the oven and set aside to cool for at least 10 minutes before serving. (If you did bake the crostate in tartlet pans, allow them to cool for about 10 minutes before carefully removing them from the pans while still a bit warm.)   

Pavlovas with Strawberries and Whipped Cream

There’s nothing better on a warm day than crunchy and soft pavlovas married with homemade strawberry jam, fresh strawberries, and velvety whipped cream.

These individual pavlovas are very elegant, but indeed deceptively simple assemblages of basic items: soft, chewy meringues, homemade strawberry jam, fresh strawberries, and whipped cream. They do require several steps, but you need not accomplish them all at once. You can prepare the jam days ahead of time and cut the strawberries and bake the meringues hours before you use them. The latter will keep for several days, but the characteristic soft, chewy centers will become firm the longer they sit. As for the whipped cream, prepare it last as it will lose volume and smoothness the longer it waits in the refrigerator. If you are traveling with this dessert, carry the parts separately and assemble them on site.

Serves 8

Meringues

4 large egg whites

1 teaspoon vinegar

Pinch of salt

1 cup sugar

1 tablespoon cornstarch

Jam

16 ounces fresh strawberries, hulled and roughly chopped

3/4 cup sugar

Pinch of salt

1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

Whipped Cream

1 1/4 cups heavy (whipping) cream

Sugar (optional)

Assembly

16 ounces fresh strawberries, hulled and sliced

To make the meringues, preheat the oven to 250 degrees. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. Put the egg whites in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and begin whipping on medium-high speed. When the whites are very frothy, add the vinegar and salt. Begin incorporating the sugar, about 2 tablespoons at a time, whipping for about 30 seconds to 1 minute after each addition. When all of the sugar has been added, continue whipping the meringue to stiff but supple peaks and until thick and glossy, about 5 minutes more. Spoon the meringue into 8 mounds onto the prepared baking sheet. Shape them into about 3 inch rounds, pressing the centers a bit to make shallow nests. Bake until firm (the meringues might color slightly and crack a bit), 50 to 60 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside on a wire rack to cool completely on the pan. (At this point, the meringues can be carefully removed from the baking sheet and stored between sheets of parchment paper in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days. Be advised that the moist, chewy centers will become firm the longer they sit.)

To make the jam, combine the strawberries, sugar, and salt in a large saucepan and, using your hands or a potato masher, crush the ingredients together until syrupy and mushy. It’s okay if you still see some pieces of berries. Cook the mixture over low heat, gently simmering and stirring occasionally, until thickened and reduced, about 25 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the vanilla extract. Transfer to a bowl to cool, or pour into jars and seal with airtight lids. The unsealed jam will keep in the refrigerator for several days and the sealed jam will store well in the refrigerator for up to 4 weeks.

To make the whipped cream, whip the cream in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment to soft peaks. Whip in sugar, if desired.

To assemble the pavlovas, toss together the sliced strawberries with about 1/3 cup of the jam. Arrange the meringues on serving plates or a large platter. Fill each one with a dollop of whipped cream and spoon the strawberries and jam mixture evenly on top. Serve immediately.

Coconut Macaroons

Perfect-For-Valentine's Day Coconut Macaroons

If you are looking for a tasty and easy alternative to Valentine’s Day chocolates, here is a tempting confection to suit your needs. You can prepare these petite coconut macaroons in minutes and have them sitting on a pretty plate or packaged in cellophane bags tied with ribbon before your love walk through the front door. This recipe relies on sweetened coconut, sweetened condensed milk, egg whites, and vanilla and coconut extracts to create a cookie with a light-golden exterior and a tender, moist crumb. I have suggested forming the batter into several dozen small macaroons, but it also bakes successfully when shaped into larger, more substantial dollops. (You will just need to bake bigger macaroons a bit longer.) Whether you serve them plain or dip them in melted chocolate or ganache, these sweet coconut gems are sure to become part of your repertoire any time of year you are looking to fetch extra kisses and hugs.

Setting to cool

Coconut Macaroons

Makes about 60 macaroons

2 large egg whites

Generous pinch of salt

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1/2 teaspoon good quality coconut extract (optional)

1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk

1 (14-ounce) bag sweetened shredded coconut

Melted bittersweet or semisweet chocolate or ganache for dipping (optional)

Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper.

In a large bowl, whisk the egg whites and salt until thick and frothy. Stir in the vanilla extract, coconut extract, if desired, and sweetened condensed milk. Add the coconut and fold until combined. Set the batter aside in the refrigerator to rest for about 30 minutes. (You can also store the batter in the refrigerator at this point in an airtight container for up to 3 days.)

Using a 1 1/4-inch scoop (it holds about 1 tablespoon), scoop the coconut batter into mounds and place about 2 inches apart on the prepared baking sheet. You should be able to fit 20 macaroons on a large sheet. If desired, using damp fingers, lightly pat down any rough edges or strands of coconut, forming neat, fairly smooth rounds.

Bake until firm and golden brown, 18 to 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and set on a rack to cool on the baking sheet for 5 to 10 minutes, or until fairly firm, before removing to a plate or platter to cool completely. Dip in melted chocolate or ganache, if desired, and set aside until cool and firm. Store the macaroons in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

My Favorite Zucchini Bread

 

Fall is finally here, and I, for one, am ready to say farewell to summer’s heat and humidity. I’m even prepared to trade in the warm weather’s rich assortment of produce for autumn’s array of apples, winter squash, roasted chestnuts, and the like. This is my favorite time of year, and I adore the comfort food that accompanies the cool weather and brilliant foliage.

All this being said, I must admit, though, that I am having a difficult time saying goodbye to one seasonal fruit, in particular: summer squash. Yes, I know it’s available year-round, but summer’s bounty is special. I’ve cooked a lot with it the past few months. I have served zucchini and yellow squash grilled, sautéed, in soups, salads, and even in an impromptu ratatouille-like chili.

My favorite way to celebrate fresh local zucchini, though, is to bake it into bread. For quite some time, I searched for the perfect recipe. I don’t know why it took me so long to settle on one I really liked. I guess I was looking for a loaf that succeeded in all areas. I wanted the bread to be moist; pleasantly, but not too, sweet; golden brown; and leavened enough to form a lovely domed and slightly cracked top.

After several tries and many donations to neighbors, I finally found a recipe that satisfies my criteria. This batter makes two loaves, but you could also use it to fill small loaves or muffin pans. I usually serve the bread plain, but it would also be lovely drizzled with lemon glaze or even spread with buttercream or cream-cheese icing. I have found that using cake flour makes for a tender, light bread, while the whole-wheat flour contributes a nuttiness and depth of flavor. If, however, you have neither, simply use three cups of all-purpose flour in place of the cake and whole-wheat flours. The bread stores well in the refrigerator for at least a week or in the freezer for about two months.

Yes, I realize summer squash is best in its namesake season. But, seeing that we are fortunate to have access to zucchini year-round, I encourage you to make this bread whenever you are yearning for a taste of warm weather, or are just in the mood for a comforting, satisfying loaf.

Summer’s Best Zucchini Bread

Makes two 8-by-4-inch loaves

3 cups cake flour

1/4 cup whole-wheat flour

1 teaspoon Kosher salt

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoon baking powder

1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/4 teaspoon allspice

1 1/2 cups granulated sugar

1/2 cup packed light brown sugar

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature

3 large eggs

4 teaspoons vanilla extract

2 cups grated zucchini (about 2 medium zucchini)

3/4 cup chopped toasted walnuts or pecans (optional)

Preheat the oven to 350ºF. Butter and flour two 8-by-4-inch loaf pans.

Whisk together the cake flour, whole-wheat flour, salt, baking soda, baking powder, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, and allspice in a medium bowl.

Combine the granulated and brown sugars and butter in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and beat on medium speed until light and creamy. Add the eggs, one at a time, and beat until incorporated. Add the vanilla, reduce the mixing speed to low, and add the zucchini, beating until just incorporated. Remove the bowl from the mixer and fold in the nuts, if desired.

Divide the batter between the two prepared pans, set the pans on a baking sheet, and bake until the breads are well risen, golden brown, and a wooden skewer inserted in the centers comes out clean, 50 to 55 minutes. Set the breads on a wire rack to cool in the pans for about 15 minutes before turning out to cool completely.

 

Summer Peach Jam

A couple of weeks ago, on a warm, sundrenched summer day, I took my girls to a local peach festival, where we spent several hours reveling in fuzzy, fragrant fruit. Abundant bushels of ripe white- and yellow-fleshed peaches abounded. After filling our baskets at the farm market, we perused the bakery, where we discovered ping-pong-table-size peach layer cake, from which enthusiastic ladies wielding long serrated knives were slicing oversized, whipped cream-cloaked squares. Nearly every conceivable confection celebrated the fruit that day, from crisps and pies to breads and cakes and, of course, ice cream.

Once home I was ready to get to work cooking with the several pounds of the ripe peaches we purchased. Although there were many delicious desserts I could have made, I decided to engage in one of my favorite cooking pastimes: making jam. I have made peach jam a handful of times—sometimes with pectin and sometimes just with sugar. In the interest of time and accuracy, I decided to go with the conventional method and pulled a packed of liquid pectin from my pantry. The instructions in the box of Ball Fruit Jell Liquid Pectin make the process just about foolproof.

I happen to like altering recipes, adding ingredients here and changing amounts there. With jam, however, it really is necessary to follow directions and abide by the ratio of sugar, pectin, and fruit called for. This ensures that the jam will set up properly and maintain an appropriately thick consistency. That being said, I couldn’t help myself and did change the ingredients slightly. I added a pinch of salt, which I think is necessary to enhance the brightness and depth of the fruit flavor, and I stirred in a bit of finely chopped crystallized ginger. Peaches and ginger love each other. Adding too much ginger can overpower the peaches’ delicate sweetness and acidity. Incorporating just enough, though, contributes a lovely balance of warmth, spice, and roundness to the finished jam. The heat and intensity of the spice also mellows slightly as the jam sets for several days. In case you don’t care for ginger, simply leave it out, or add a couple teaspoons of vanilla extract once the jam is done if you want. The peach jam is, of course, also perfect without any additions or alterations.

A final note about canning: Many recipes call for boiling the filled, capped jars of jam in a rack-lined pot of water to help create a successful vacuum and increase the jam’s shelf life. I usually don’t do this. My method of filling the jars, putting on the lids, inverting the jars for about ten seconds, and then allowing them to cool on the counter always creates a successful seal. I then store the jars in the refrigerator for at least three weeks and often up to a couple of months. This is an easy method of preserving, and once you start making your own fruit jams, I bet you’ll never again buy another jar of the store-bought stuff.

Summer Peach Jam

Pit, peel, and chop 3 pounds of peaches. You should have about 4 cups. Put the peaches in a large saucepan along with 7 1/2 cups of sugar, the juice of 1 lemon, and a pinch of salt. Bring the mixture to full boil over medium-high heat, stirring frequently. Stir in 1 packet of Ball Fruit Jell Liquid Pectin. Return to a rolling boil and cook for 1 minute. Remove the pan from the heat, skim any foam that has formed on the surface, and stir in 1/3 to a scant 1/2 cup of finely chopped crystallized ginger, if desired. Carefully ladle the hot jam into jars, leaving about 1/4 inch from the rims, and seal tightly. Invert each jar for about 10 seconds to create a vacuum and then set aside at room temperature to cool. This jam will keep well in the refrigerator for at least 3 weeks.

Makes about eight 8-ounce jars (8 cups)