Blueberry Jam Crumble

Blueberry Jam Crumble

Blueberry Jam Crumble

Here’s another way to enjoy your homemade or favorite store-bought jam this summer. Like so many of my favorite homey desserts, this dish is less a recipe than a method of combining a handful of flavorful ingredients.

Toss together about equal parts jam and fresh fruit, in this case blueberry jam and fresh blueberries, drizzle in a bit of lemon juice, and season with a scant pinch of salt. Make my quick Crumble recipe (see the one below) and simply layer the crumble and fruit filling in individual oven-safe jars (I use Weck), bowls, or cups. I like to layer thusly: crumble, fruit, crumble, fruit, crumble, fruit. I then speckle the tops with coarse sugar and bake the crumbles in a 375 oven until they are bubbly, golden brown, and fragrant, about 20 minutes. Serve these fruity crumbles warm or at room temperature.


1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 cup packed light brown sugar

1 stick unsalted butter, melted and cooled

1/2 cup rolled oats (optional)

Pinch of sea salt

Combine all of the ingredients, lightly stirring with a fork, until the mixture is crumbly. Sometimes it will look damp and clumpy, depending on the humidity and brand of flour you’re using. Not to worry. If it does appear too pasty, simply stir in a bit more flour. This crumble can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks or in the freezer for up to 1 month.

Chou-Chou Granola Bars

Granola bars are perfect for dessert or snacking any time of day.

Granola bars are perfect for dessert or snacking any time of day.

Here is a nourishing but sweet treat to celebrate the first weekend of spring, as well as the launching of my new confections company, Chou-Chou. Pronounced “shoo-shoo,” the term is not only French for sweet little thing, but it is also my son’s nickname. These granola bars are sure to become a signature item in my line-up of goodies—some purely sweet and decadent, and others based on healthful whole foods, such as my Dried Fruit and Nut Squares (published below).

These bars contain a goodly amount of flavorful and healthy ingredients, but they come together quickly and easily. After a relatively short time in the oven and a cooling rest, they cut nicely into semi-soft bars that satisfy a sweet tooth, as well as an empty tummy rumbling for a “good-for-you” snack.

Makes eighteen 1 ½-by-3-inch bars

2 cups rolled oats

½ cup slivered blanched almonds

½ cup raw pumpkin seeds

½ cup unsweetened shredded coconut

1/3 cup raw sesame seeds

½ teaspoon sea salt

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ cup golden flax seeds

1/3 cup toasted wheat germ (optional)

About 1 ½ cups chopped dried fruit, such as pitted dates, stemmed figs, cranberries, cherries, raisins, golden raisins

2 tablespoons canola oil

1/3 cup maple syrup

1/3 cup molasses

¼ cup packed dark brown sugar

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.

Stir together the oats, almonds, pumpkin seeds, coconut, sesame seeds, salt, and cinnamon on the prepared baking sheet. Bake until just fragrant and beginning to color lightly, about 10 minutes.

Remove from the oven and transfer to a large bowl. Stir in the flax seeds, wheat germ, if using, and the dried fruit.

Reduce the oven temperature to 300. Line a 9-by-2-inch square baking pan with 2 sheets of parchment paper, long enough to drape over the edges by about 1 inch. Hold the paper in place over the edges with small binder clips.

Stir together the canola oil, maple syrup, molasses, and brown sugar in a small saucepan and bring just to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the vanilla.

Pour the hot syrup over the oats mixture and stir to coat evenly. Pour into the prepared baking pan and, using the back of a damp spoon or damp fingers, press into the pan until flat and firm.

Bake until the granola is golden brown and fragrant, 20 to 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and set on a wire rack to cool completely in the pan, at least 3 hours or overnight.

To cut the granola bars, remove the binder clips from the pan and hold onto the parchment paper to lift out the entire square of granola. Using a large chef’s knife, cut into 18 even rectangles. Store the bars in an airtight container, separated by small sheets of parchment paper, or in re-sealable bags at room temperature for up to 5 days or in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

J’s Birthday Croquembouche

Birthday Croquembouche

Birthday Croquembouche

Recently, when I needed to prepare a particularly special birthday dessert, this elaborate confection came to mind and I decided I simply had to master it. It had been at least 20 years since I learned the technique in culinary school, but I figured it was an endeavor worth tackling. And it was.

This French confection, translated as “crisp in the mouth,” is literally a pyramid of profiteroles (custard- or cream-filled cream puffs prepared with traditional choux paste, a.k.a. pate a choux), dipped in and assembled with hot caramel, and then draped in delicate swags of caramel or wispy buntings of spun sugar.

There are many good recipes available on-line and in pastry cookbooks for all of the components: pate a choux, pastry cream, and caramel. I have decided to formally share the recipe I used for the cream puffs, based in part on one of Martha Stewart’s recipes. You can pipe the puffs as large as you desire, although I prefer petite puffs, as they are the proper proportion to prettily cover a 10- or 12-inch Styrofoam cone (available in the flower section of most craft stores).

As for the filling, use your favorite pastry cream or even whipped cream or buttercream. For about 45 puffs (enough to cover a moderate-size cone), you will need about 2 ½ cups of filling. Fill all the puffs (piping into the flat sides) before preparing the caramel.

To make the caramel, simply stir together 2 cups of sugar, ¾ cup of water, and 2 tablespoons of light corn syrup in a medium straight-sided saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium low, refrain from stirring further, and cover, simmering for about 3 minutes. Uncover and, again without stirring, cook until the caramel is light amber in color. Remove from the stove and set the pan briefly in a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking. Place the pan on a kitchen towel or heatproof surface while assembling the pyramid.

To assemble the croquembouche, I covered the cone and a round base with gold cellophane paper (yes, it actually withstands the heat of the caramel). Carefully dip the piped sides of the puffs into the caramel and beginning at the base, arrange them around the cone. Continue until the cone is completely covered.

For a final flourish, dip a fork in the caramel and swirl thin strands around the croquembouche, cloaking it in elegant golden swags. Reheat the caramel as needed if it becomes too thick as it cools.

Cream Puffs

Makes about 65

1 ½ sticks unsalted butter

1 ½ cups water

Generous ¼ teaspoon sea salt

1 tablespoon sugar

1 ½ cups all-purpose flour

6 large or extra-large eggs at room temperature

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line 3 large rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper.

Melt together the butter, water, salt, and sugar in a medium straight-sided saucepan over medium-low heat. Remove from the heat and stir in the flour. Set over low heat and stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until the mixture forms a firm paste and possibly leaves a film on the bottom of the pan, about 2 minutes. Transfer to the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and begin mixing on medium-high speed. Drop in the eggs, one at a time, beating each time until the batter is smooth.

Fit a pastry bag with a round tip about 1/2 inch in diameter (I use the Ateco no. 6 round tip) and fill about half-full with the batter. Pipe rounds about 1 inch in diameter and 1 ½ inches apart onto the prepared baking sheets. Using a wet finger or pastry brush, tap down the points on the tops of the discs.

Bake until the puffs have risen and are light golden brown, about 20 minutes. If baking multiple pans, you might want to reposition them halfway through baking to ensure they bake evenly. (If you don’t have enough racks in your oven, you can set the prepared baking sheet of raw dough rounds aside until the oven is free.) Pierce each puff gently with a skewer and return to the oven to bake for another 7 to 10 minutes (this will help the puffs dry out completely).

Remove from the oven and transfer the puffs to wire racks to cool completely. Use immediately or store in freezer-safe airtight bags for about 2 months. To use, thaw in the refrigerator and crisp briefly on a parchment-lined baking sheet in a 350-degree oven for several minutes.

Christmas Sugarplums

Just right for Santa or snacking at Christmas

Just right for Santa or snacking at Christmas

Christmas Sugarplums

These pretty petite confections will surely have you reciting Clement Moore’s ‘Twas the Night Before Christmas while you prepare them, as well as when you find yourself taking dainty bites at midnight on Christmas Eve (probably as you put together the toddler’s new tricycle). A traditional combination of sweet dried fruit, toasted almonds, comforting spices, ground ginger cookies, vanilla, and even a bit of whiskey or other spirit of choice if you desire, these moist, delicate rounds bejeweled with sparkling coarse sugar make for perfect gifts, additions to a dessert table or petit four tray, or even in lieu of cookies for Santa Claus. If you’re preparing them days ahead of Christmas, be sure to make a goodly amount. Otherwise, you might not have enough to share with St. Nick on December 24th.

Makes about 42

6 ounces toasted slivered almonds

4 ounces dried apricots

2 ounces pitted prunes

2 ounces dried cherries

2 ounces dried figs, stemmed

2 ounces dried dates, pitted

1/3 cup finely ground gingersnaps

1 tablespoon whisky, dark rum, or amaretto (optional)

½ teaspoon vanilla extract

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon ground ginger

¼ teaspoon ground allspice

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

¼ teaspoon ground cardamom

Pinch of coarse sea salt

3 tablespoons good-quality honey

1 tablespoon mild molasses

Coarse or sanding sugar for rolling

Put the almonds in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade attachment and pulse several times until they are coarsely chopped.

Coarsely chop the dried fruit. Add to the almonds along with the ground gingersnaps, the whiskey, vanilla, spices, and sea salt. Process until the mixture forms a coarse paste, stopping once or twice to scrape the sides of the bowl, if necessary. You don’t want the mixture to be smooth; you want to see small bits of fruit and nuts.

Transfer the mixture to a medium bowl, drizzle with honey and molasses, and using your hands or a large spatula, gradually incorporate the sweeteners into the fruit and nut mixture. It should be sticky (not overly so or wet) and hold together when you squeeze a small bit in your hand.

Using a good-quality small metal scoop that holds approximately 2 teaspoons, shape the mixture into balls and set on a small parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet. Roll the balls into spheres. At this point, you can cover the baking sheet with plastic wrap and store at room temperature for up to 1 week or in the refrigerator for up to 3 weeks. Alternatively, roll the sugarplums in coarse sugar and serve or package in small decorative muffin or candy paper cups.

Rich Tart Dough


I admit it. I’m sometimes scared of making pastry. Yes, it’s true. I would like to say my confidence is as high and secure as that of the most successful pastry chef, or even my late grandmother. But let’s face it. Usually when we have to make pastry it’s for a special occasion like Thanksgiving or Christmas or a celebratory summer gathering. So the pressure is on.

Here, though, is a recipe I have developed and used repeatedly for a variety of desserts and savory items. It is just right for folding over fruit to form a rustic tart; shaping a pretty unbaked shell for quiche; or, as the method below reveals, forming a perfectly golden prebaked base for a savory or sweet large tart or mini tartlets.



Unlike traditional pie dough, this is a rich, almost cookie-like pastry. Slightly yellow in color from the egg yolk and just a bit sweet from a small amount of sugar, it bakes into a beautifully formed golden vessel.

As with all pastry, keep your ingredients cold and work quickly. As soon as the dough just starts to come together in the food processor (it will appear a bit crumbly and shouldn’t form a ball), turn it out onto a large sheet of plastic wrap, shape it into a disc, and set it aside to rest in the refrigerator. If the dough becomes too hard from chilling, let it set out for a few minutes until it is workable. If you need to prepare the dough ahead of time, this recipe will keep well in the freezer for about two months.

Makes enough for one 8-inch tart pan or 16 to 18 tartlet pans

1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

4 teaspoons sugar

Pinch of salt

1/2 cup (1 stick) chilled unsalted butter, cut into about 1/4-inch pieces

2 tablespoons water

1 large egg yolk

Combine the flour, sugar, and salt in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade attachment. Pulse several times until the ingredients are incorporated. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture has the consistency of coarse breadcrumbs. The pieces of butter should be no larger than peas or lentils.

Whisk together the water and egg yolk in a small bowl and, while pulsing the processor, gradually incorporate the liquid mixture. The dough might look dry, but should just begin to clump. If it does indeed appear too crumbly, drizzle in a bit more water. You don’t want the dough to gather into a ball, however. Drier is better here. Turn the dough out onto a large sheet of plastic wrap, gather it into a flat disc, and wrap tightly. Set in the refrigerator to chill and rest for at least 20 minutes.

Butter sixteen to eighteen 2 1/2-by-3/4-inch tartlet pans and set aside on a large baking sheet. (Of course, you can use any size you prefer.)

Using about 1/2 of the dough at a time, roll it out on a generously-floured work surface to about 1/8 inch thick. Cut into discs using a 2 3/4-inch round cutter. If you find the discs are becoming too soft, arrange them on a baking sheet and set in the refrigerator to chill a bit. Roll out the remaining dough in the same manner, re-rolling the scraps, as necessary. Fit the rounds of dough into the prepared tartlet pans, pressing down the sides to create stability and removing any excess from the edges by scraping it off neatly with your fingers. Arrange the prepared tart shells once again on the baking sheet and set in the refrigerator to chill until fairly firm, at least 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Prick the bottoms of the formed tart shells, using the tines of a fork. (This will help prevent the dough from puffing in the oven.) Bake until the tart shells are golden brown and fragrant, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool at least to warm before carefully turning the shells out of the pans to cool completely. If not using immediately, store the prepared shells in an airtight container in a cool dry area for up to 5 days.

Strawberry Butter Cakes


Almost no other food says spring like strawberries, and these petite butter cakes celebrate them in two ways. First, a traditional butter cake is perfumed and flavored with the fresh fruit, and then an exceedingly rich Swiss buttercream transforms into a red-speckled elegantly pale pink confection with the addition of strawberry jam. Making them the perfect sweet ending to a brunch, both the cakes and the buttercream can be prepared ahead. Wrapped well in plastic wrap, the cakes will keep in the refrigerator for up to three days and in the freezer for at least one month. The buttercream, too, stores well refrigerated or in the freezer (see the recipe for details). For an extra special detail, decorate the cakes with sugar decorations or flowers.


Strawberry Butter Cakes

Makes 10 cakes little cakes or about 20 cupcakes

Strawberry Buttercream

4 large egg whites

1 cup sugar

Pinch of salt

1 pound (4 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 1/4 cups strawberry jam

Strawberry Cakes

1 1/2 cups sifted cake flour

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter at room temperature

1 cup sugar

2 large eggs

1/2 cup milk

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

6 ounces fresh strawberries, hulled and cut into about 1/4-inch pieces

To make the strawberry buttercream, set a medium saucepan filled with about 1 inch of water over high heat and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and maintain at slow simmer. Whisk together the egg whites, sugar, and salt in the bowl of an electric mixer. Set the bowl in the saucepan over the simmering water (the bowl should not touch the water) and, using the whisk, gently stir the mixture until the sugar begins to dissolve and it is warm to the touch (about 1 or 2 minutes). Immediately place the bowl on the mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and beat at high speed until the meringue is fluffy and cool, 5 to 7 minutes or so. Reduce the mixing speed to medium low and gradually incorporate the butter, about 1 tablespoon at a time, whipping until the buttercream is smooth and glossy and stopping once or twice to scrape the sides of the bowl. Incorporate the vanilla and strawberry jam, reduce the mixing speed to low, and continue to beat for another 2 to 5 minutes to dissipate any air bubbles. Transfer the buttercream to airtight containers or cover the mixing bowl with plastic wrap and set aside until the cakes are ready.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter and flour 10 six-ounce ramekins and arrange on a large rimmed baking sheet, or line about 20 standard muffin cups with paper liners.

To make the strawberry cakes, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt in a medium bowl. Beat the butter in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment on medium-high speed until smooth. Add the sugar and beat until light and fluffy. Drop in the eggs, one at a time, beating until each one is fully incorporated. Stir together the milk and the vanilla extract. Reduce the mixing speed to medium low. Alternately incorporate the flour mixture and milk, beginning and ending with the flour and stopping several times to scrape the sides of the bowl, until the batter is thick and smooth. Remove the bowl from the mixer and fold in the strawberries.

Divide the batter between the prepared ramekins and bake until the tops are golden brown and a wooden skewer inserted in the centers comes out clean, about 25 minutes. Cool the cakes on wire racks in the ramekins until only slightly warm, at least 15 minutes.

Carefully run a paring knife around the edges to loosen the cakes and turn out onto another baking sheet or serving plate, or transfer the cupcakes to a wire rack to cool. Briefly whip the buttercream again on the machine or whisk by hand and pipe or spread onto the cakes, as desired. (Store the remaining buttercream in an airtight container for up to 3 weeks or in the freezer for up to 2 months.)

Lemon Meringue Chiffon Cupcakes


Lemon, of course, is an ingredient that inspires us year round. Somehow, though, using the bright, refreshing flavors of lemon zest and juice in these cupcakes seems perfectly suited to the colorful, hopeful, sunny, and happy season that is spring.

This recipe relies on the two essential ingredients of traditional lemon meringue pie: lemon filling (or, better yet, curd) and meringue. What makes this dessert unique, however, is the replacing of soft lemon chiffon cakes for the crisp pie crust. Moist and perfumed and flavored with citrusy lemon zest and juice, they form a delicious pillowy vessel into which the creamy, lemony curd is spooned and then topped with billowy dollops or swirls of meringue.

The cupcakes can be prepared in a couple of hours, or make the lemon curd and cakes ahead and finish them later with the meringue. Once the cakes are assembled, I have called for caramelizing the meringue in the oven. If you have one, though, a small kitchen torch (available at most cookware stores) works just as well and more quickly, too.

Makes 12

Lemon Curd

4 large egg yolks

Zest of 1 large lemon (about 1 1/2 tablespoons)

Juice of 1 large lemon (about 5 tablespoons)

1/2 cup sugar

Pinch of salt

5 tablespoons chilled unsalted butter, cut into 1/4-inch pieces


1 cup plus 2 tablespoons cake flour

3/4 cup sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

3 large eggs, separated

1/4 cup vegetable oil

Finely grated zest of 1 large lemon (about 1 tablespoon)

1/4 cup water

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice (about 1 medium lemon)

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar


6 large egg whites

1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

6 tablespoons sugar

Pinch of salt

To make the lemon curd, whisk together the egg yolks, lemon zest and juice, sugar, and salt in a small saucepan. Set over medium-low heat and, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, cook until the curd has thickened enough to coat the back of the spoon. Immediately remove from the heat and stir in the butter, 3 or 4 pieces at a time. Strain into a small bowl, place a piece of plastic wrap directly on top of the curd to prevent a skin from forming, and set in the refrigerator to chill.

To make the cakes, preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Line the bottoms of a standard 12-cup (1/2-cup capacity each) muffin tin with parchment paper rounds.

Whisk together the flour, 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon of the sugar, baking powder, and salt in a medium bowl. Whisk together the egg yolks, oil, lemon zest, water, lemon juice, and vanilla in a small bowl until combined. Add to the flour mixture and whisk until smooth.

Put the egg whites in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip on medium-high speed until foamy, and add the cream of tartar. Gradually incorporate the remaining 3 tablespoons of sugar and whip to stiff, but not dry, peaks.

Immediately fold about one-third of the whipped egg whites into the batter, mixing until incorporated. Add the remaining whipped egg whites and fold until combined.

Divide the batter among the muffin cups, bang the pan firmly against a firm work surface to dissipate any air bubbles, and bake until the cakes have risen, are fragrant, and a wooden skewer inserted in the centers comes out clean, 12 to 15 minutes. Remove from the oven, set on a wire rack, and cool the cakes completely in the pan. To unmold the cakes, run a paring knife around the edges of the cakes and carefully coax out of the muffin cups. Peel off the parchment paper rounds. (If you’re not serving the cakes immediately, they can be wrapped in plastic wrap and refrigerated overnight or frozen for about 2 weeks.)

To finish the cakes, reheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Cut a cone-shaped piece out of the top of each cake, leaving about a 1/2-inch rim and cutting about 3/4 inch deep into the cake. Remove the very tips of the cones. Spoon about 1 tablespoon of lemon curd into each cakes, replace the tops, and set aside. (You might have a bit of curd left over, or you can divide the remainder evenly among the cakes.)

To make the meringue, put the egg whites in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip on medium-high speed until foamy, and add the cream of tartar. Gradually incorporate the sugar and pinch of salt and whip to stiff, but not dry, peaks.

Using about half of the meringue to start, spoon it into a pastry bag fitted with a star or plain tip, and pipe swirls or stars on top of the cupcakes. Refill the bag as necessary. You might have some meringue left over, depending on how much you pipe onto each cake. (You can also simply dollop about 1/3 cup of meringue on top of each cupcake and, using a spoon or an off-set spatula, swirl it and create pretty peaks.)

Arrange the cakes about 2 inches apart on a large baking sheet and bake just until the meringue is golden brown, about 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool.

Serve the cakes immediately, or store in an airtight container (the top should not touch the caramelized meringue peaks) and chill for up to 24 hours.